Fendi, Gucci, Armani and Prada... Why Italian Fashion is taking a stand
Απο Iliya Constantinou
Δημοσιεύθηκε: 01 Μαρτίου 2016

Τα καλύτερα και τα χειρότερα απο το Milan Fashion Week. Το αποτελεσμα του Ιταλικου Fashion Show στο Μιλανο υποδεικνύει οτι τα μεγαλλα και διασημα οικοι μοδας ξανα επανερχονται στην κοριφη της μοδας. 

When we think fashion we think of brands such as Prada, Gucci, Versace and Fendi. Whilst their products all differ in terms of style, what they all have in common is firstly, that they are all classified as 'Superbrands'. In other words huge fashion houses that everyone has heard of, that make beautiful luxury products, that cost a small fortune.

Secondly they mostly show at Milan Fashion Week... and basically what every fashion lover awaits for during fashion season, forgetting about New York and London Fashion Week.

Gucci opened Milan with frankly, a collection that cannot be rivalled. Gucci is the biggest selling Italian brand with a revenue of 12.4 billion. Everything about Gucci is big and grand and that includes their latest Autumn/Winter show which in my opinion returned the brand to its former glory.

Gucci Autumn/Winter 2016

Alessandro Michele the current creative designer of Gucci and the man who changed the face of the company over the last year showed his love for print and the past.

It was clear from the start of the show that Michele was inspired by the 1970's with wall paper like prints and wide-shouldered jackets and blouses (something we saw in London at Mary Katrantzou). He opted for bright colours such as the bright pink fur jacket as well as the classic Gucci red, making an appearance in most looks. In terms of material he opted for heavy materials such as fur, wool and leather however contrasted them to lighter and airier materials such as silk and lace. (This is again a trend we have seen throughout fashion month. Mary Katrantzou paired heavy leather jackets with ballerina tulle skirts).

Another brand which hit the catwalk this week was Prada, which like Gucci has rethought its image and aesthetic.... and actually made its clothing relevant to the fashion world.

Prada Autumn/Winter 2016

Prada's turnover increased by only 1% between 2014 and 2015 whilst companies such Louis Vuitton Group have had a huge increase in turnover. However this beautifully powerful collection inspired by the Second World War will bring a lot of new customers to Prada. Whilst it combined long coats and A line midi skirts, there was also an erotic sense to the collection with the corsets. Whist Miuccia Prada was inspired by an event that occurred over 60 years ago, in some ways her message was very current, possibly referencing the current growing tensions between the USA, Europe and the Middle East.

However whilst Gucci and Prada slayed the catwalk with their experimental yet classy looks Moschino..... left me confused and a bit lost.

Moschino Autumn/Winter 2016

Individually there were some beautiful pieces from the collection, such as the burnt dress(top right) which was inspired by a 15th century riot started by monks who trampled through Florence burning art and books etc. However all the outfits together didn't seem to have any visual connections. I am all for outrageous artistic catwalks -being number one fan of Alexander McQueen- however when a dress appears with a chandelier attached to it (bottom left) one starts to realise why fashion is ridiculed so much outside of the fashion bubble.

The founder of Moschino, Franco Moschino was known for his risky and controversial clothing, however he constantly did it with taste and class. Whilst Jeremy Scott's (the current creative director) collection can be appreciated it seems a far cry from the classic beauty of original Moschino, which made the house so great.

Franco Moschino Past Collection

Some other catwalk shows from Milan include Armani, who stuck to their classic suits, whist Versace stood in stark contrast and showed pastel coloured clothes with beautifully tailored coats and sports inspired jackets and trousers.

Armani Autumn/Winter 2016

Versace Autumn/Winter 2016

What we can say is that over the past few years less known brands such as Mary Katrantzou and Alexander Wang have crept into the ranks pushing the Superbrands aside. However the Superbrands seem to be taking control again, probably due to the fresh talent that has infiltrated the old houses, removing the cobwebs from the archives.